Kusatsu
A small and walkable hot spring resort northwest of Tokyo with a giant hot water field in the center of town (the picture at the bottom of my Home page). There’s apparently skiing here, but we went just to wander the town as we had just skied for a week in Hokkaido!
Getting here takes a bit more coordination. Unless you want to spend 4 hours on local trains, look into the limited express from Ueno Station. It will take you about 2.5 hours (and then a bus for 30 min after you arrive at Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station). The limited express train only runs ~3 times per day! We ended up wandering Ueno for a bit to pass time.
We arrived at night, spent the next day wandering the town, and stayed one more night before returning to Tokyo.
Hotels
Name
Yubatake Souan
Recommended
Sure :)
Notes
A 3-star hotel that was quite comfortable and pretty cheap! I don’t think there are a ton of rooms so availability may be more of an issue if you travel at peak winter times. Right off the town square and a short walk from the bus station. Would stay here again!
Restaurants
Name
Mikuniya Soba
Recommended
Highly
Notes
I’m almost certain this was the place. The soba was SO delicious but we both ate so much that we didn’t have room for dinner.
Scenic
Yubatake
Recommended
Highly
Notes
We happened to see a flyer for a performance that evening of a traditional dance for cooling hot spring water.
It’s kind of the entire middle of the town. Can’t miss it! Field of spring water collection pools (yes, sulfur smells) that makes an interesting center piece. Great to photo at night if you have a tripod! Colors turn off after midnight.
Highly